Ljubljana, Slovenia.
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Maribor, Slovenia.
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Hotel Zusterna in Koper.
I’m back, like the bitch in the Elton John song. And yes, I had a wonderful long-weekend in Koper/Capodistria.
Unfortunately, we had to return a little earlier than planned because of a misunderstanding during check-in. See, we asked for a “quiet room,” and although the concierge promised us the “quietest room in the hotel,” he actually meant to say: “The quietest room in the hotel until the sun sets, after which it becomes the loudest room in Koper, because it’s directly above a small stage where live bands play 80s schlock-rock until 2 a.m. followed by a fireworks show.”
Just to be clear: Hotel Zusterna is a family hotel; it openly promotes itself as such. That’s why we picked it. And sure enough, the guests were overwhelmingly parents with young children. Plus retired couples. There was no one in the 20-30 age group, or anyone who looked like they wanted to rock-n-roll all night and party every day. Knowing this, why would you stage really long, really loud rock concerts in the parking lot?

Janez and the Ear-Drum Breakers prepare to rock. Note the massive audience.
I just don’t get it. On Saturday night, we slept terribly. But we were in high spirits and assumed it was an isolated event. The next evening, we noticed more bands warming up and decided to leave rather than suffer through another night of cheesy guitar solos.
When we went to the concierge to ask for our money back, he calmly told us: “Yes, a lot of guests have been complaining.” As if this were slightly interesting, but in no way useful, information.
Despite this, we had a wonderful time. Slovenes often make fun of their own coast, but I really enjoy spending time there. That’s why this week will be Koper Week here on The Glory of Carniola. From June 1st to June 6th, there will only be pictures and posts about Koper (and Izola!). If you don’t care about Koper (or Izola!) the only thing to do is wait until Monday, when the posts about Koper (and Izola!) will stop.
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Strangely enough, my wife and I — and our baby son — had exactly the same experience a few hundred km down the coast, in Dubrovnik.
We asked for a quiet room (while standing there holding a six month old baby!) and were given a first floor room looking out over a terrace… where a horrible band started playing cheesy soft-rock covers at around 8:00 pm. And continued doing so until midnight.
Oh, and to reach the room required going up two flights of stairs. More accurately, it required us to carry a stroller up two flights of stairs.
Checkout: same thing, yep. “There was a band outside our…” “Yes, they play there every Friday and Saturday night.” “But we wanted a quiet room for the baby!” Eloquent shrug, as if to say well then, you shouldn’t have come here on a weekend, should you.
Coincidence? Or is it some sort of former Yugoslav Adriatic coast thing?
– I have to say, while we thought Dubrovnik was gorgeous, the quality of the service (with one honorable exception — the lovely young woman in the tourist information office just off the main square) was horrible. In fact, in our travels along the Croatian coast, there seemed to be a clear inverse correlation between the number of tourists a place got, and how badly they treated them. We found the friendliest people and best treatment in obscure villages; Dubrovnik, the jewel in the Adriatic crown, was the worst.
Anyhow. Our sympathies.
Doug M.
Crazy, insane…insane, crazy…
Doug, the coincidences are eerily similar and are compounded by the fact that our daughter was also 6 months old at the time. (Does this mean a move to Romania is in my future?)
Actually, there was an elevator in the Koper hotel.. but you had to walk about a kilometer to get to it. So, there’s that.